How to Overcome the Waves : Place both hands on the edges of the surfboard in front of you and push down, sinking the nose of your board under the water.
Duck diving technique is an essential part of being a competent surfer. Duck diving is the way a surfer dives under an incoming wave while paddling out toward the wave formation. Diving under the wave ensures that all the progress made paddling out toward the wave formation is not lost by being pushed backwards by the wave breaking in front of us, Keep your arms straight and move forward to put more of your surfboard under the water. Be sure to take a deep breath just before the wave breaks on you, submerging most of your surfboard.
Lay flat on your surfboard as the wave starts to come over you, creating as little resistance as possible. Your back knee or foot (to go deeper under the water) should put pressure on the back of the surfboard, leveling it under the water. Point your surfboard toward the surface as the wave passes you.
If you have done all the right movements , you should be able to immediately start paddling again.
The faster you start paddling out again, the quicker you will get back to the point where the waves start to break and the less energy you will use.
Being able to dive with a surfboard has a lot to do with the size of the board you are riding. Longer surfboards like a longboard or funboard will be more buoyant and harder to dive unless you are a really heavy person. If you are having trouble getting your surfboard to sink under the wave, you might try the Turtle Roll, either paddling around the wave using a channel or simply waiting for a break (pause) in the waves and then paddling out.